When to Plant What: A Simple Seasonal Planting Guide

One of the most common beginner mistakes in vegetable gardening is planting at the wrong time. Tomatoes planted too early hit frost and die. Lettuce planted in midsummer heat immediately bolts. Timing matters enormously for vegetables.

This guide gives you a simple framework for what to plant when — season by season. Note that exact dates vary by your climate zone; find your USDA hardiness zone or look up your average last frost date to calibrate these guidelines to your specific location.

The Concept That Makes Everything Click: Frost Dates

Two dates anchor your gardening calendar:

Last spring frost date: The average date of the last frost in spring. Planting warm-season crops before this date risks losing them to frost.

First fall frost date: The average date of the first frost in fall. This marks the end of warm-season growing.

The time between these two dates is your “frost-free growing season.” You can look up both dates for your zip code through the Farmer’s Almanac or USDA resources online.

Once you know these dates, planning becomes much simpler.

Cool-Season vs. Warm-Season Crops

Cool-season crops grow best in the moderate temperatures of spring and fall (40–70°F). They can tolerate light frosts and actually prefer cooler weather. Heat causes them to bolt (flower and go bitter/tough).

Examples: lettuce, spinach, arugula, kale, chard, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, peas, radishes, carrots, beets.

Warm-season crops need warm soil and air. Frost kills them. They grow, flower, and fruit during the heat of summer.

Examples: tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, beans, corn, basil, melons, eggplant.

Spring Planting

4–6 weeks before last frost (late winter / early spring):

• Start tomato seeds indoors under lights
• Start pepper seeds indoors (they need longer than tomatoes)
• Start broccoli and cabbage seeds indoors
• Direct sow peas outside if soil is workable (peas love cool soil)

2–4 weeks before last frost:

• Direct sow or transplant cool-season crops: lettuce, spinach, kale, chard, arugula, radishes
• These can tolerate light frost
• Start hardening off your tomato and pepper seedlings (gradually acclimate them to outdoor conditions)

On last frost date or after:

• Transplant tomatoes, peppers, eggplant outside
• Direct sow beans, cucumbers, zucchini, corn
• Plant basil and other tender herbs outside
• Plant warm-season crops only after soil has warmed (at least 60°F for beans and tomatoes)

Summer Growing

Summer is the main season for warm-season crops. Focus on:

Early summer:

• Succession plant lettuce and spinach in a partially shaded spot — they’ll bolt in full heat but can survive with some shade
• Plant a second round of beans for extended harvest
• Keep up with watering — heat and growth mean high water demand

Midsummer:

• Most warm-season crops are in full production
• Harvest cucumbers and zucchini frequently (daily if needed — they grow fast)
• Side-dress heavy feeders like tomatoes and corn with compost or fertilizer

Late summer:

• Start planning fall garden
• Begin cool-season seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before first fall frost
• Direct sow fast-maturing fall crops (radishes, lettuce) outdoors

Fall Planting

8 weeks before first fall frost:

• Start broccoli, cabbage, and kale transplants indoors

4–6 weeks before first fall frost:

• Direct sow or transplant: lettuce, spinach, kale, arugula, radishes, beets, chard
• Plant garlic (for next year’s harvest!) after first frost in most regions

After first fall frost:

• Tender warm-season plants (tomatoes, peppers, basil) are done — harvest anything remaining and compost the plants
• Cold-hardy crops: kale, chard, certain lettuces can often continue through light frosts
• Plant tulip, daffodil, and other spring bulbs

Winter

In mild climates (Zone 8+):

• Cool-season vegetables can continue through winter under row cover or in cold frames
• Plant cool-season crops for winter harvest

In colder climates:

• Garden beds rest under mulch or cover crops
• This is the time for planning next year’s garden, ordering seeds, and maintaining tools
• Some gardeners grow lettuce and herbs indoors under grow lights

Extending Your Season

Row covers and frost cloth: Light fabric covers protect plants from frost and extend the season by several weeks on both ends. Simple to use — drape over plants before a frost and remove during the day.

Cold frames: A simple box with a clear lid (old window pane works great) creates a mini greenhouse for spring and fall crops. Extends the season significantly.

Greenhouses and hoop tunnels: More substantial season extension, allowing year-round growing in many climates.

Quick Reference Chart

CropStart IndoorsTransplant/Direct SowSeasonTomatoes6–8 wks before last frostAfter last frostWarmPeppers8–10 wks before last frostAfter last frostWarmLettuce4 wks before last frost2–4 wks before last frostCoolSpinachDirect sow4–6 wks before last frostCoolRadishesDirect sow2–4 wks before last frostCoolBeansDirect sowAfter last frost, warm soilWarmCucumbersOptionalAfter last frostWarmKale4 wks before2–4 wks before last frostCoolGarlic—Fall (October)CoolPeasDirect sowEarly spring, 4–6 wks before last frostCool

The Simple Takeaway

Cool season crops go in early spring and late summer/fall. Warm season crops go in after your last frost date when the soil is warm. Find your frost dates, work backward from there, and you’ve got the basics covered. Everything else is refinement.